My philosophy is that if a place feels like extra precautions are needed so as not to run into trouble, I’d rather not visit. Nothing spoils a trip more for me than having to be on alert constantly. And yet, when it seemed that I have exhausted ideas within easy reach of Hong Kong for a quick getaway – mind you, ideas that’d jolt me out of my day-to-day reality and show me a totally new angle – I suddenly thought about Manila. After this somewhat unusual staycation, I can honestly say that Manila not only delivered what I was craving but even far exceeded it. It was probably the best idea I could have come up with and as surprising as it may sound, I am tempted to revisit this crazy and overwhelming metropolis. Here’s why.
Manila is no vanilla
This is true. And that’s precisely where the pull is for a quirky traveller and why it shouldn’t be skipped. The city gets a bad rap. That’s for sure. There’s so much negativity surrounding it that it’s hard to ignore it. Since I moved to Asia in 2015, I’ve always heard that Manila is so dangerous that it should be avoided at all costs. And if people are not focusing on the safety aspect, they’ll dismiss Manila as a nothing-to-do city. So, I had to see for myself. Truth is that I had a lot of second thoughts. After booking my flight and accommodation I researched Manila again (wrong order, I know) and as I delved into the realms of fear mongering on the internet,
I became incredibly paranoid and thought that I’d made a mistake.
I fell into a rather conflicted state of mind, where part of me was genuinely apprehensive and the other part oddly exhilarated.
Internet is scary
We all know that taking information online too seriously can be a double-edged sword. You might remember my story with Pulau Ketam where reviews were highly critical of it but once I went, I became totally infatuated with this gem of a place. You see, personal experience is the only way to understand. While sometimes taking advice from someone who’s done something before you can save a lot of hassle, many times it can also create unwarranted myths and fuel fear. It’s really up to you to strike a balance but I say take note of the advice and do it your way, anyway.
Take note of the advice and do it your way, anyway
Manila’s list of dos & don’ts
There’s a lot of common advice online. You shouldn’t use taxis nor public transport as both are risky. On top of that navigating the public transport couldn’t be more chaotic. Walking alone is not a good idea, especially at night. Don’t expose your richness and always inform family or friends of your moves and whereabouts.
When you read all this,
you start thinking that you’re going into a crime-ridden city and perhaps you’d better be off staying put in your hotel. I kept thinking that if worst to worst I’d spend my time chilling and watching TV. My stomach was shrunk when I boarded the plane but there was also this intuitive feeling that it couldn’t be that bad since the plane was full of people heading in the same direction.
Reality
The truth is that apart from taking regular taxis, which really can be a scary experience (my Bangkok scams are still vividly stored in my memory), I did almost everything they said I shouldn’t. Result? I enjoyed Manila more than I expected and returned with a very positive impression. Of course, safety remains a top priority and I always follow the better safe than sorry approach. I have my wits about me but I don’t let the exaggerated news online spoil it for me. With the right mindset navigating Manila can be fun, especially if you crave unusual scenes that you’d be hard-pressed to see anywhere else.
Rudimental, my favourite band,
sum it up beautifully in this amazing video clip featuring Manila shantytowns. You always get the things you invite into your life.
You always get the things you invite into your life.
In a nutshell
I stayed in Makati (ASN Boutique Residence). It is apparently the safest and most hype area (though BGC fans may not agree). I’d say that it’s a great choice for first timers and it’s also a good starting point for understanding Manila. From Makati, you can get easily to the neighbouring parts of the city (mainly Intramuros) and enjoy the Manila vibe. Makati is also great for dining and shopping. The latter is not my hobby at all, but Greenbelt is probably the poshest area in Makati. It features high-end restaurants, luxury brand shops and all the glitter of modern lifestyle. It almost feels like you are not in Manila because the contrast to the rest of the city is so stark.
Know what to expect
Since exploring Manila cannot be done exactly fast, as you will read below, you would probably need more than a week if you were to really understand it. I took a leisurely approach and spent 3 days by walking around, eating out and going with the flow. But of course, it’s always good to do your research and understand the areas you plan to visit. There are plenty of tours on offer, but my view is that as far as attractions are concerned, you should keep your expectations low.
Just remember – Manila is the attraction!
First touch down
Taking LRT from the airport, which is what always like to do, is probably a lost case as apparently you can’t take luggage with you. So as a scared first-timer I opted for an overpriced transfer arranged by my hotel, thinking I’d figure things out as I got there. Of course, I could have taken Grab – the number 1 transport in Manila for tourists and expats alike, but I’d be dependent on a reliable Wi-Fi connection. Since that was provided at NAIA only recently and since I know from my travels that there’s a huge difference between saying Wi-Fi is available and it actually being functional, I decided to play it safe. I worried in terms of reliability it’d be miles away from all the advanced world-class airports in Japan, South Korea or the best Hong Kong.
Although the promised Wi-Fi worked perfectly, it was nice to have a personal driver for the first touchdown to get into the proper vibe. It cost me PHP 1,200 as opposed to the usual PHP 300 with Grab, but it was well worth it. However, the driver did discourage me from taking the public transport and recommended that I didn’t walk too much.
So how are you supposed to get around? You may wonder.
Transport in Manila
Grab
Everyone will tell you that this is the go-to transport in Manila. Indeed, it works like a charm but my first ever Manila ride from Makati to Intramuros was both exciting and disappointing. I liked watching the craziness from the safety of the back seat and at the same time I was being torn apart by not being able to see the life first hand. I missed so many unique opportunities that it made me sad. For example, there was a rally on one of the main arteries and I was dying to photograph the lines of policemen leisurely propping up against their shields seemingly prepared to intervene. I know, it could be tricky but the explorer in me felt like in a straitjacket. What’s more, aside from the safety, Grab doesn’t ensure the quickest transportation. Here’s why.
Infamous Manila Traffic
If I ever called traffic in KL horrendous, it was just a diluted version of what madness awaits in Manila. Timing is absolutely everything but quite frankly unless it’s early in the morning or after 10pm there’ll always be traffic somehow somewhere in Manila. I’ll share two examples with you. I wanted to go to the Manila Memorial Park. I got a Grab at 3pm and thought it’d allow plenty of time to get to it, explore it before its gate closing at 5pm and return afterwards. What a fool I was! From the Central Terminal LRT 1 station it was about 9 kilometres. At 4.15pm we had barely covered 20% of the journey and I started feeling uneasy.
Improvise and change your plans if you must!
I asked the driver how long it’d take. ‘25 minutes, Miss,’ he said. ‘It’s rush hour now, Miss,’ he explained sympathetically. It was clear that his estimation wasn’t accurate, and it’d take much longer. He just wanted to cheer me up. Plus, it wasn’t necessarily rush hour. It’s just that in Manila it always feels like rush hour. When it became clear that I’d probably not even make it to the destination before the closing time I quickly asked the driver to drop me where we were and let it be. C’est la vie. Maybe next time. But I did enjoy the hospitality in the form of the cute mini fans instead of air con. Cute, indeed!
Getting stuck in Manila traffic is part of the game
Grab is reliable but slow
Another more classic example of Grab taking is calling it for some ridiculously short distance, for example, 3 kilometres and getting stuck in the traffic for 90 minutes. I’ve done that too. That was during the real 6pm rush hour. As you understand calling this transport slow would clearly be an understatement. I was fine with it because it was part of the trip, but doing this every day? Clearly, in instances like these, walking would be much quicker but in Manila it does require a great deal of stamina and perseverance. Luckily, from years of practising I possess both attributes.
Walking Manila
Honestly, I don’t think you can explore a city from a car. It’s too distant and limited. But when it comes to Manila, you’ll always hear walking is a no-no. If not for the safety reasons, then because Manila streets are not well built and are largely inconsistent. Well, that’s true only partly. Frankly, to me the least walkable of all cities I’ve so far been to is definitely, hands down, KL. As an avid pedestrian, and having lived in the city for 6 years, I know what I am talking about. Not only was walking some parts of the city extremely challenging, sometimes it was downright impossible. Sorry mate, but it’s true.
To me Manila was way more walkable.
After all, you won’t be alone. Plenty of locals, from adults to students of all ages roam the streets and aptly navigate the so-called non-walkable streets. So, it won’t be as bad as they say if you have the right mindset and the right shoes!
The real feel of wandering around
Now that we’ve have sorted your comfortable wear, I still need to highlight that you’ll need to keep your expectations in check while walking around Manila. You might have the greatest shoes but if you expect romantic strolls with inviting scenery, you probably really should stick to Grab.
To walk Manila really means to understand the true colours of the city.
And to some that won’t be pretty.
You’ll meet lots of unusual, potentially suspicious-looking people. You’ll be asked for money or food occasionally. You’ll be stared at and accosted by curious people. You’ll be talked to and called at, mostly out of curiosity.
Tread carefully
To truly walk Manila means to appreciate the authentic, raw colours of a complex tropical capital. The streets are filled with intense energy, bustling commerical activity, and dense crowds. It can be an overwhelming sensory experience for the uninitiated, but with a flexible mindset and an open heart, exploring these distinct local neighborhoods becomes an unforgettable adventure.
Know thyself
Such scenes are quite the norm so if any of that makes you feel bad, then indeed don’t walk around Manila. I, however, enjoyed it tremendously, exploring the neighbourhoods with my camera, day and night, and my verdict is – the city is perfectly walkable, at least between Makati and Intramuros, which are the two areas advertised as most interesting for visitors. But I understand that my desire for unusual scenes might not be on everyone’s list when exploring a city.
Damsel in distress
The best part of my urban hikes through the city was when at around 10pm I appeared at a particularly difficult junction. From all sides the engines roared, and you could hear the impatient charging of motorbikes all around. There was no traffic light nor pedestrian crossing. It was the usual Manila chaos. You could expect a vehicle come from any direction. But I was in good hands. As soon as the traffic officer (Manila still uses those) saw me approach, he did his magic. Decisively raising his hand, turning to all sides as a sign to stop the traffic, he called “Miss, come please,” as he ushered me to cross the street offering a protective shield from the madness around us. I smiled at him, nodded and placed my right palm on my heart to thank him. It felt amazing. Amidst the fumes and deafening noise of impatient engines, I was given priority. I felt like a queen.
This too is Manila. Which brings me to another awesome point.
Amazing locals – confidence boost guaranteed
When I first visited Philippines, I returned with mixed impressions and I wasn’t sure if going to Manila was a good idea. But once I stepped into the chaotic yet charming streets with contagious vibe, Manila touched my soul!
While the country is perpetually stuck in a vicious circle of poverty, corruption and limited growth as a result, their people don’t let this destroy them. I was greeted with smiles and compliments everywhere I went. Only during the walk from Intramuros to Makati I heard dozens of compliments and people were throwing themselves at my camera. While I am trying to practice modesty and stoic detachment from the pleasures of our civilization – i.e. glorifying youth and beauty – I do admit that it gave me an unbelievable confidence boost. Locals genuinely love foreigners, and I felt being even more welcome
because I am a woman.
Manila is definitely a place of friendly people!
Public transport
The only advice online is – avoid! Chaotic, crammed, dangerous and impossible to navigate. These are the main attributes. Well, I don’t know, really. I only used the LRT between Makati and Intramuros, but everyone was incredibly nice and helpful. I saw no pickpockets or dangerous people on it, and mostly rode with working women. It wasn’t as crammed as I expected, and I didn’t feel it was dangerous or uncomfortable. I was always also the only ‘puti’ on the train – given the widespread advice I can see why – and mostly met with curiosity and friendly giggles.
Well, here you go.
This was the dangerous public transport in Manila. Of course, I can’t speak for public transport outside Manila or in more remote parts of the city. It’s something I’ll need to explore as well as a ride on a jeepney or motorcycle taxi, but I really don’t think it’s as bad people online tell you. Jeepneys are the most common transport, and I am sure people would help you navigate them if you asked. You see, in Manila everybody speaks good English!
Manila tuk-tuk
Logically I was apprehensive about this mode of transport. In Bangkok using them can be a recipe for disaster for first timers (I guess you know my stories by now) and in Manila it didn’t look much different. But it’s always about your gut feeling. From the dozens of lukewarm offers I got along the way I suddenly came across a lovely guy who seemed fun. I originally refused but he was quite cute with his talkative marketing. But everything he said was genuinely nice.
While I knew he was eager to get me on the tour, it didn’t feel dangerous or offensive in the slightest. As we set off, I appreciated the smoothness with which he talked and the genuine smile. He drove slowly and talked a lot, which of course meant that the trip would be longer than the advised 30 minutes, but that’s just something I knew would happen. A couple hundreds of pesos will hardly make a dent in my budget, but it’ll totally make his day. These are the trade-offs I am more than happy to make.
A couple hundreds of pesos will hardly make a dent in my budget, but it’ll totally make his day.
You see, transport-wise Manila is doable. With time, patience and an optimistic mindset you are all set.
What’s next on the quirky Manila menu?
Great restaurants and accessible fine dining
Another reason to love Manila for is dining. I don’t do fine dining but if given an opportunity I’ll give in. Not in Hong Kong as it’s too self-indulgent and irrational given the hallucinating prices. So, the only solution is? Find a cheaper city.
Manila is just spot on in this sense!
Fine dining here doesn’t break the bank. And because it’s also full of other mid-range options, it’s a great city for foodies. I particularly loved Green Bar. This vegan spot serves incredible food with drinks, and I would recommend it to anyone looking for a quality meatless bite! For fine dining I chose Blackbird and again, it was amazing. I got a high-end experience for a fraction of the Hong Kong price. I guess I’ll need to be back soon! Of course, the list of great cafes, bars and restaurants is endless in Manila so if this is what you are after, you’ll have a blast!
Really so dangerous?
As usual, be cautious with strong words as ‘dangerous’ or ‘avoid’ as often these are just exaggerated views of areas which are simply severely underdeveloped, impoverished, crammed. Typically there’s limited to no sanitation and the commonest food is pag pag which is recycled food. You take a trash bag, find a piece of chicken or fish or whatever you ‘fancy’, wash it, refry it and there you go. Sounds almost impossible, right? Well, sadly, that’s the reality of tens of thousands of Manila citizens.
But does that make a place that scary?
Probably not
Many travel writers highlight that exploring the deeper, historic community layers of the city offers – such as Tondo or Smokey Mountain – a life changing perspective. Seeing resilience at such a profound level alongside the incredible generosity of local neighborhood dwellers provides an incredible testament to the human spirit. For those looking to support local communities directly, pariticipating in a community-led, ethical neighborhood tours is a wonderful way to contribute to local educaitonal and social initiatives.
No judgement, I am a humble visitor
I am in no position to judge after a short trip but of course understanding that this is not exactly a growing economy, and observing how the country navigates immense infrastructural inertia alongside urgent socioeconomic challenges requires no advanced degree in political science. But because I enjoyed my trip a lot, I’ll just say that it’s perhaps one of the reasons why the country with its chaotic capital is somehow unique. I believe the uniqueness is great to be appreciated for a temporary journey, but it could be really challenging to accept it long-term. But who knows? Apparently, the expat population is growing and for some the city has a lot to offer,
so I guess you’ll need to hop on a plane and find out!
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