Acquaintance: ‘Ever been to Japan?’
Me: ‘No, it’s not my style’.
Talking about travel and inspiring journeys goes on, along with drinking and having fun until it’s time to say goodbye to my new random and temporary friends.
Acquaintance: ‘It was lovely chatting to you. Me: ‘Likewise’.
Acquaintance leans forward: ‘And don’t write off Japan completely. I think it could offer you a new perspective’. With that the acquaintance shakes my hand and leaves the restaurant. I too then disappear aimlessly strolling the streets of KL covered by night.
As I walk home, I dismiss the earlier comment thinking that I surely know best what can or cannot offer me new perspectives. Oh, the blissful ignorance! Luckily, the universe has amazing ways of opening the eyes of the blind. 5 or 6 years later, finding my bearing in Hong Kong and trying to figure out a totally new reality, it just so happens that I cannot ignore Japan anymore. Stumbling across an article about Okinawa, I am so dazzled that I quickly look up some accommodations. And the first thing that pops up forever changes my attitude to Japan. Here’s my Okinawan Omakase!
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Omakase
This term is typically used in dining. It means ‘I leave it up to you’ – a famous Japanese concept where the chef curates your plates to ensure every dish becomes a delighful surprise. I find that Okinawa treats visitors like that too, constantly offering unexpected, beautiful layers of discovery. Its mysteriousness lies in a non-touristy beach-style holiday with pristine scenery and quite unique environment.
First contact with Okinawa
I first discovered Okinawa through Zamami, probably the most pristine island I’ve seen in years, and Naha, which is always the arrival or departure point. Of course, the fact that getting to Naha from Hong Kong is so unbelievably easy has only fuelled my newly developed passion for the place.
Zamami
The fun already starts on the boat. Firstly, I soon realise that it is probably one of the best spots for plane spotting. If you are into this, taking the boat from Naha port will almost always secure a shot of plane flying so insanely close to you that you feel you can touch it. Sadly, I missed my opportunity (my passion for photography seems to be waning recently) and turned to something I like much more – photographing locals and other passengers.
Would you believe that I went to Naha and Zamami twice in the same month just to be able to capture a plane?
Seize the opportunity now!
But as it often happens opportunities rarely come twice. I couldn’t spot any plane on my second visit. What’s more I got so terribly seasick that I almost cried. I spent the whole boat trip locked in the toilet. This made me truly appreciate the Japanese attitude to cleanliness. Lying on the floor leaning my dizzy body against the wall probably saved me from massive vomiting. I was relieved I could spend the entire trip sitting on the floor without worrying I’d get even more sick from that. The boat rocked like crazy, and I was begging for the trip to stop. Unsurprisingly, I left the vessel in a state which prevented me from exploring the island as I had originally planned.
Yes, seize the opportunity now. Next time may not come.
Kucha Homestay
My initiation into the Okinawan style couldn’t be any better. Traditional Japanese futon style accommodation tucked away from the port makes you feel as you are part of a proper samurai movie. With probably some of the best meals I’ve ever had anywhere in Asia, community living with shared sit-on-the floor dining room and bathrooms you are in for a treat. Miss Takako, who meticulously runs the place, knows how to enchant travellers and has thought about pretty much every detail from food to comfort.
The stillness coupled with Japanese design and impeccable attention to detail make for an unforgettable experience.
Japanese commitment to comfort and order
My neighbours from one of the other rooms, who were great conversationalists, were enjoying my Japanese virginity a lot. Pretty much everything was ‘cute’ and I can’t even count how many times I used this word when we chatted over meals. The truth is what initially seems cute can only be attributed to the Japanese commitment to comfort. They understand this like no other nation and do everything possible and impossible to keep the standard high. From portable ice cream makers to talking devices or decorative items, Japan is the country of invention. But what really surprised me was Takako’s dedication.
Origami – a testament to unwavering hospitality
During sleepless nights I made several trips to the toilet. That isn’t surprising in any way. But the origami with the toilet paper certainly is. Miss Takako always folded the toilet paper in origami style. When I went for the first time, it was folded. Surprisingly, it was folded also the second, third and fourth time. After my second visit I started making secret bets with myself if the origami would be there. I always lost. Be it 2am or 4am, Miss Takako was unmistakably precise. And it could mean only one thing. She must have heard me and risen to do the origami regardless of the ungodly hours or the frequency of my toilet visits. It was impressive and unbelievably unusual at the same time.
First encounter with the firm Japanese system
But I think Miss Takako didn’t like me much. I drank a huge mug of coffee with my breakfast while Japanese appreciate miniature sizes of everything. I asked for ice cream after dinner. I ate Okinawan tomatoes with oil for lunch. I strolled outside in the rain and returned drenched into the house. These and other aspects of my free-spirited personality generally surprised the meticulous Japanese host. It’s understandable as the Japanese culture is burdened with many ‘don’ts’. While I had a great time, I knew I made Takako desperately try to catch up with some of my Western-like idiosyncrasies.
She couldn’t but I am sure she didn’t mind that much after all.
Learning more through Amélie Nothomb
Do you believe in coincidences? I don’t know but I am sure that small serendipitous discoveries are not meant to be all random. Finding a copy of Stupeur et tremblements by Amélie Nothomb aka Fear and Trembling felt as a message from the universe. There couldn’t be any more fitting book for understanding the constraints of the Japanese culture and navigating its intricate minefield of conventions than this one. Having seen the movie years ago made me think of my own experiences with penetrating foreign cultures as a young and deeply passionate girl. Picking up this book in Homestay Kucha surrounded by Japan in its purest form was an absolute joy.
Anyone who wishes to understand the Japanese culture from an honest perspective should read Amélie.
Exploring the island
Zamami is unbelievably easy to explore.
As the island is part of a national park, you can really expect contact with pristine nature and tranquil environment everywhere you go. From spectacular beaches to hikes this island will enchant every nature and serenity lover.
Electric bicycle
While walking is enjoyable it can get boring after a while. Not to worry! Zamami has you covered! Renting an electric bicycle is just a spot-on experience that will make your exploration of Zamami even more unique. It will also allow you to enjoy the pristine island in its entirety and have some fun while pedalling into some of the rather steep hills the tiny island has to offer. Yes, you will need to pedal. In fact, you’ll need to paddle fiercely as some ascents can be pretty tough so even if electric the ride is not completely effort free!
But fun is absolutely guaranteed!!!
In fact, this experience teleported me straight to my childhood when riding a bicycle would provide me with the feeling of endless freedom. It is always a good idea to try to replicate those moments, revive the memories and enjoy the vibe again. Letting the bicycle speed down from the steep hills, having the air blow my hair and squeeze my cheeks was simply priceless. This is what I call unrestrained passionate exploration.
But if you don’t fancy being a child again, and long for more comfort, you could get around that with renting a cute electric mini car.
An international driving license is a must!
Furuzamami
Probably one of the best beaches you’ll find in the whole region of Okinawa.
In fact, it often features on the list of the best beaches not only in Japan but also worldwide.
No wonder! This long stretch of pristine sand, turquoise water and deep bottom allows for an awesome swimming and snorkelling experience. The depth of the sea also means it’s not popular with families with small kids. So, there’s high potential for the tropical kind of experience you’ll never get in other touristy spots. Of course, provided you don’t come here during summer when the island is packed with locals and foreigners alike. My photos of the beach don’t do it justice, so just check the link:-)
Shisa guardians
The island’s serenity and beauty is closely watched by dozens of shisas, the guardian lions, randomly but eloquently spread all over the island. They come in different sizes and colours and form an inseparable part of this sun kissed island.
The dining scene and Orion
In April, which is low season, it was hard to find a restaurant or a local spot for beer or late lunch. Most were either temporarily closed or had some funky opening hours that I never seemed to be able to figure out. But tucked away in one of the inconspicuous little pathways of the Zamami village, which basically consists of a port, tourist centre, and a few houses and basic shops, I found an amazing spot with even a more amazing owner. Kafushido is a small izakaya run by Mr Hiro.
I loved his Onion beer chilled to perfection and great Takoyaki which saved me from afternoon hunger pangs. As the only customer I got to watch some telly with him while sipping the golden liquid. During this short moment I also developed a minor crush on him. That night I couldn’t sleep as I toyed with the idea of moving to Zamami permanently. This is because Mr Hiro told me there might be some job for me. Over dinner my Kucha housemates quickly dissipated my excitement explaining that my idea of job is probably miles away from what Mr Hiro meant. Okay, fine, just let me dream a bit though, alright?
Really? Would he really be so kinky? Hard to say ….
Returning feels good
Truth is that when I like a place, I often find reasons to imagine what living there permanently would be like. I know by now that in 99% of cases it’s always an infantile fantasy at best and a disastrous idea at worst. While in the past returning from holiday would trigger excruciating emotional pain, today whenever my plane glides over the Hong Kong waters and I get yet another glimpse of the quintessential high-rises, I sigh and whisper: It feels good to be home. Thank you, universe, for letting me experience the outside world while offering a safe passage back.
Naha
As mentioned above, Zamami had me so spellbound (Or was it Mr Hiro perhaps?) that I had to return as soon as possible. While watching telly with Mr Hiro sounded like a good idea, the next time round I bought a return boat ticket and decided to devote more time to Naha. Naha is always your arrival and departure point. It’s not a particularly culturally rich city but I find it charming in its own way. It’s certainly worth exploring at least for a couple of days. I particularly enjoyed the dining scene and the accommodation on my second visit.
La Passione B & B Hotel
This is a must-book guesthouse.
I can’t explain what it is that makes is so amazing. Aside from the beautiful rooms, wonderful hosts and friends I made there during my stay, this place enchanted me with its unobtrusive and genuine vibe. It felt like I belonged there. It therefore didn’t come as a surprise that when the departure time approached, I cried like a baby. If you are ever in Naha, you should check it out. Provided you are lucky, and it’s not booked.
Photography and Dining
The best part of Naha for me was strolling around with my camera, riding the monorail back and forth, and trying as many dining spots as possible. Naha offers a nice blend of modernity and tradition. Once you get away from the main touristy avenue and venture to the less trodden alleys you will find some cute restaurants, cafes and houses. If great dining is what you’re after then a couple days in the city won’t go amiss.
The public market area
The best izakayas (local type of restaurant) are near the public market. You will be spoilt for choice. It’s impossible to know where to sit so I always went randomly. I am a huge fan of the local style of dining where different types of food are served on small plates. Like this you get to sample an amazing variety. This goes for both, food and drinks. The Japanese creativity of mixing shochu, awamori or highball cannot be disputed. And I bet the bar owners are aware.
One menu read: Awamori mixed with soda – So easy to drink that it will make you shiver.
It did not make me shiver as I didn’t have probably enough, but it did taste absolutely amazing. Speaking of which …
Nightlife Observations and Setting New Trends
Observing the bustling evening energy of the city’s commerical districts past midnight sparked a fasinating internal monologue regarding modern social habits. It made me reflect deeply on how effortlessly we default to routines to unwind after a demanding work week. Right there, amidst the vibrant streescape of Naha, a sudden inspiration corssed my mind.
Let’s explore an entirely alcohol-free lifestyle.
Embracing this shift has been an incredible journey, opening the door to a clearer bloodstream, heightened focus, and mindful presence. So, I guess it’s fair to say Thanks Okinawa and Naha for helping me turn to healthier habits!
Still in my heart
While I am attempting going alcohol-free, I have absolutely no intention of going Okinawa-free. So, in Part 2 of my Okinawan Omakase, we will explore another pristine island called Ishikagi.
Stay tuned:-)
More clicks from Zamami and Naha
Zamami
Naha
