While Zamami tapped into my childhood self, Ishigaki reinforced the free animal that resides in me and looks for every opportunity to broaden its horizons. Even though Japanese culture is filled with restrictions and expectations, as a visitor to Ishigaki you will probably not feel this in any significant way. Also this island will greet you with pristine nature, addictive quietness, and inexplicable ‘samurai’ vibe. Okinawa never disappoints, and my trip to Ishigaki was a clear testament to that. Part 2 of my Okinawan Omakase is here!
Honeymoon with Lono
First things first. The trip to Ishigaki had an extra value added to it, because it was my first proper honeymoon with Lono Flow. And because this love is real, things seem to be moving in the right direction. I was almost about to buy a new pair, because honestly there is never enough Lono. But I didn’t have to. To celebrate our mutual affection, Lono contacted me and sent me a pair of the brand-new addition Lono WILD. We took this model to Sri Lanka. As expected, not only did we fall for Lono even harder, but we can’t stop thinking about the trip. Stay tuned my friends. My Sri Lankan LONO WILD adventure is coming up real soon! To make the wait more bearable, check out the post about the Ishigaki honeymoon or read how Lono and I first met and fell in love🙂
Btw if you scroll down, you’ll find a photo of me wearing Lono;) I really love these barefoot buddies so much!
And now let’s get Ishigaki!
Where to stay
Soyotabi
Soyotabi is a must-book experience in Ishigaki. Located in the quite Sakieda village and run by friendly and professional hosts, great experience is guaranteed. I was apprehensive at first about the no-meals style but once you rent a car (which is another must) this problem will disappear. Aside from the amazing surroundings, quietness and comfort, the place offers an unusual way of holidaying. Community living with shared kitchen and bathroom actually reinforce the experience. Especially if you are lucky and meet lovely travellers like I did. Having great chats and discussing interesting experiences definitely accentuated the special vibe of this guesthouse. Also, the fact that I became Sonia-san, which means Ms Sonia in Japanese, was cute (I really can’t get rid of this ‘cute’ habit yet). When Tomomi, the lovely host, called me like this for the first time, I had yet again this feeling that part of me lived or travelled though Japan in one of my previous lives.
Ishigaki Patina
For the last days of my stay I moved to Ishigaki Patina, to have easier access to the northern part of the island and explore the town a bit more. This hotel was great for its amazing selection of herbal teas (which surely saved me from the effects of the colder weather ), free flow of the amazing shikuwasa juice and of course central location with easy access everywhere.
Getting around
Car is a must
Unlike Zamami, this island is quite big. So, to enjoy it properly, you’ll need a car. There is no getting around that! (pun intended) I too initially thought I might be fine without it but upon touching down it became crystal clear that I wouldn’t. Indeed, renting a car is a must. It will provide you with an unbelievable sense of freedom. The process in Ishigaki is super straightforward, and it’s definitely value for money. I ended up renting a car for the whole stay, so I enjoyed the island more than I could have done without it. My host, Tomami, has helped me with renting from Tom Sawyer dive shop. And for the rest of the stay, I rented with Ishigaki auto rentals. With both companies it was unbelievably seamless, inexpensive and easy to navigate. Out of season, you can expect to pay between 4,000 and 5,500 JPY. This is really a sweet deal for having the whole island open for unrestrained exploration!
And driving in Japan?
It really couldn’t be any easier!
At first, I was worried about driving on the left side. Having tried driving in KL, I only remembered I wasn’t really very good at it (actually, that’s an understatement, I sucked. I also caused panic, especially to my ex boyfriend who never let me drive again). But Ishigaki is different (I promise). Getting behind the wheel on this peaceful island is just really a no-brainer. Given the low-speed limit (40 km/h) and respectfulness of drivers, it probably couldn’t be anymore stress-free than that. Occasionally, I did drift to the right side of the road – old habits die hard – but I always managed to shift sides flexibly. Usually my confusion occurred when the roads were empty as there was no point of reference, but I quickly realised the error when a car slowly emerged in front of me, driving on the same side. In another country, this could be a hair-raising experience, but in Japan it was actually a reason to smile (for me, not the driver in the car in front of me).
What to do on Ishigaki?
Freedom of exploration
Now you’ve got the transport sorted, you are free to roam. Ishigaki will now invite to effortless exploration and soaking up its beauty. Of course, time of the year matters. I went in February and was welcome by cold gusts of winter wind. That quickly eliminated my desire to swim. Even though the weather somewhat improved later, it still wasn’t anywhere near the warm spring weather you need for a good, refreshing dip in the ocean. On the other hand, it also meant that I got the roads mostly to myself and in most places I was pretty much on a sole visitor. What I however mean to highlight is that aside from free exploration, Ishigaki offers a perfect blend of things to do and see, from culture, pottery, natural landscapes and animals, botanical gardens and shrines, it has a little bit of everything (at least everything I like). And when it is shared only with a handful of travellers, it only makes the whole experience more memorable.
Nature, Landscapes and Serendipity
Kabira Bay
Since I stayed in Sakieda I first explored the surrounding areas. As mentioned I desperately wanted to swim so it is only logical that the first place I visited was Kabira Bay. It was magical but clearly not suitable for a dip. While the turquoise waters dotted with lonely boats were inviting, the cold and uncompromising wind tamed the wild girl in me in me pretty quickly. I knew I had to find another outlet for my free spirit but I at least Kabira granted me romantic shots and vivid memories.
Yarabudake
If Kabira didn’t let me play, Yarabudake certainly made up for it. This less-known observation point mainly frequented by locals was a highlight of my Ishigaki exploration. Getting to it involves a fun hike through a forest full of wonderfully shaped trees with even more intriguing roots. It is a steeper climb but the branches stretching haphazardly around you will make it easy and entertaining as you can grab them for support. Definitely a monkey style experience! Once you wade through the maze of trees and stones, you will reach an amazing viewpoint with a 360 view of the Ishigaki and its surrounding islands.
Special encounters and Serendipity
But my moment at Yarabudake was made special because of something else. As I emerged through the dense forest, two beautiful smiles greeted me from the top rock. It was Hitomi and Sayaka, as I learned later upon joining them, two sweet young ladies who came to enjoy the view with some snacks and loads of positive energy. This was really one of the most memorable moments on the island. Serendipity, I love you!
Lone Mangrove
This lonely guy belongs to Ishigaki like shisas belong to Okinawa. Of course, given its spectacular position, it constantly attracts visitors and photographers who die to capture the tree in all possible angles, lights and forms. I too couldn’t get enough. The sunset with clouds were creating amazing hues and it was hard to resit the magical feel it brought about.
Culture and Photography in Ishigaki Yaima Village
For a mix of culture, natural landscapes, and demonstration of traditional fisherman lifestyle, head to the cute (yeah, I know, but it really is cute) Ishigaki Yaima Village. It’s a lovely addition to the vibe the island has to offer. From strolling through manicured gardens, visiting fishermen’s houses to traditional Okinawan music and engaging in conversations with curious monkeys, you can get a good glimpse of Okinawan culture here. As I walked through the quiet paths in the village, I sipped my most favourite shikuwasa hot tea. The intriguing combination of attractions made me linger for some time. If you are too keen, you can also jump into a traditional Okinawan kimono and have your shots taken. As usual, instead of being in the frame, I observed others partaking in this lovely pastime. Just skip the buffalo though, the poor guy has no idea what is going on and refuses to cooperate with photo hungry tourists (I understand it, I would kick them in their ass too).
Pottery
Rinka
Not stepping into one of those amazing pottery studios is like going to Japan and not trying Japanese food. Okinawan pottery is famous and the vibe you get in some of the tucked potteries is lovely. My favourite was Rinka. Firstly, it’s really a cosy studio with a really nice display of traditional Okinawan pieces. And the second reason I enjoyed this experience a lot was bumping into friendly Japanese visitors as they engaged in shisha modelling. At first, I felt to urge to join them but then I thought it might be better if I just do my thing instead (there was no point in pretending I could model a shisha too). I took plenty of photos of this wonderful trio and this memory has stayed with me ever since.
Yoneko Yaki
if this studio makes you hungry for more, you can head to Yoneko Yaki Kobo Shisa Farm where you will see an incredible open-air exhibition of shisas and other ceramic creations in monstrous sizes. The first thing that intrigued me was how many years this must have taken to bring to the current form. Probably many long years. Hats off! You can definitely get your hands wet with clay in this one too. In fact, pretty much every pottery studio offers a hands-on experience. So if this is your thing, give it a try!
From lighthouse to lighthouse
The funny thing on Ishigaki is that it features two lighthouses, one at each side of the island. Both are lovely, but Oganzaki offers more raw beauty and has an explorer’s feel to it. It requires some short hike and is surrounded by raging ocean. It boasts an abundance of unusual vistas and is perhaps more suitable for photo and nature enthusiasts. Hirakubozaki, is simpler (and more crowded, though crowded here means ) but still worth the drive.
Café and Dining scene
The soba kings – Mochinoki and 茶房 うふた
I love visiting Japan because of the amazing dining. Japanese food is simply unbeatable. It’s always fresh, clean, and value for money. Ishigaki was no exception. It has plenty of choices for both local and western cuisine, but my absolute faves were local shops. Of course, you can’t leave Okinawa without trying soba soup. It will give you such an energy boost! Honestly, I could eat this every day. Two of my go-to spots for an unmatched soba taste were Mochinoki and 茶房 うふた . I have no idea what this means but I can tell you it’s one of the best sobas on the island. In Sakieda I was pleasantly surprised with Italico (that is once I managed to find it open, which was not an easy feat).
165Bakery -ばんやファーム-
When my sweet tooth struck or I craved hot shikuwasa drink, I always made a stop at 165Bakery -ばんやファーム-. This place offers such a unique selection of products and is set in such a lovely environment that it would be hard to justify having my coffee, shikuwasa and sugar dose anywhere else. This was my go-to spot throughout the stay and till today I still crave the buns with cream and the hot shikuwasa drink (by now, and from my previous post, you surely understand that I am a shikuwasa addict).
カフェボン・ボア
カフェボン・ボア aka Bons Bone or Bon Boa (I really don’t know) is another must-visit spot. An elderly but very energetic lady hides inside this meticoulously designed café. This place is another testament to the Japanese cuteness and dedication to making guests feel at home. Every inch of the the space is filled with cute and funky items, including memorabilia of the family who run the shop. The food is prepared with love and at the end of your meal you will be treated to a mini origami lesson. This time we won’t be folding toilet paper in origami as we did in Zamami in the wee hours, but you will have a go at a simple shape. Once it is established that you sadly can’t keep up even with this Japanese pastime, the lady will stop teaching you and let you watch her dexterous fingers conjure up shapes of all kinds in front of you.
This is just a simple selection of my absolute faves. We would be here long if I had to list them all but I am sure you get the idea. Once you get to Ishigaki, you will either try them or explore your own. Either way, you will have fun (even if you don’t want to). The truth is that when it comes to dining, you can’t go wrong in Ishigaki. Most restaurants are great. Some were closed and are probably only open during high season, so I suppose the choice becomes even greater in spring and summer months. But one thing is for sure, anywhere you land, you are guaranteed high quality experience for very reasonable price.
And more roaming follows…
Once your tummy is satisfied you can go back to wonderful explorations. It seems that Ishigaki is big about farming, so I really enjoyed encounters with animals, stopping by empty beaches, observing mist over the hilly surroundings, stopping by different observation decks, visiting shrines tucked away in forests, looking for waterfalls, admiring the Japanese love for geometry in a palm tree museum, enjoying picture postcard vistas…And the list goes on. So for me, not only Okinawa but especially Ishigaki will always have a special place in my heart because it ticks so many boxes for me.
And what about you?
Do you feel like hopping on a plane and seeing for yourself too?
More clicks from Ishigaki
