After my initial bumps on the road of my Thai exploration I never thought I’d would reconnect with the place. There was always this strange feeling of distance. And even with more visits, which served mostly as transitions to other parts of Thailand, I could feel I liked the place a bit more but still wouldn’t connect. Often, many experiences in this bustling metropolis would fade away. But then a breakthrough happened and the city showed me its most friendly face, eventually. It completely changed my relationship with it and made me truly fall in love with it and appreciate it for what it is. This is Bangkok redefined!
It’s only natural that I couldn’t connect with Bangkok. It’s huge and understanding it requires more than a couple of nights’ stay. With the exception of the the first scam-ridden trips, memories from following visits never seemed to linger for too long. They wouldn’t fall into oblivion but they would somehow feel ‘too normal’ to be remembered vividly. I simply haven’t immersed enough. Going only after papaya salad and chicken fried rice wasn’t the way to etch this place in my memory. But this changed rapidly last year when I planned a whole week in Bangkok. I was so smitten this time that I quickly returned for another brief visit the following month.
Yes, Bangkok finally got me.
Or I finally got Bangkok?
I don’t know which is truer.
Of course, to connect with a place you also need a moderate amount of luck. So, here’s my list of lucky strikes and tips for:
– An amazing area for exploration with one of the best guesthouses I have ever been to
– Fun transportation means
– Cultural and historical landmarks
– Spots for rejuvenation
– Quirky coffee places
– All-day or half-day cultural centres or shopping malls
– Tips for exploring other quirky neighbourhoods or sites
Lono WILD remains the best travel buddy
And before I dive in I will of course have to give another shout-out to the amazing LONO Wild which has truly become the best travel buddy for me ever. It is the perfect barefoot shoe for a place like Bangkok – hot, humid, hard pavements, lots of walking and exploring. There is really no better barefoot friend than that for me. LONO Wild ticks absolutely all the boxes – soft, comfy, right fit, breathable. Just for comparison, I also took Lono Flow. As you know, I love this model. I have travelled with it too and it’s my go-to shoe for most day-to-day wear. But exploring Bangkok is heavy duty and LONO Flow can’t pull that off. My feet were way too sweaty in them and skin peeled off. LONO Wild, however, is built exactly for such an environment. Since my Sri Lanka trip I have worn LONO Wild on every trip from Thailand to Japan, Jeju and Europe and it’s never let me down.
If you fancy a solid but super comfy and breathable friend, LONO Wild is the way to go.
Lucky strike 1 – Neighbourhood and Accommodation
When checking options for my stay I stumbled across a guesthouse in Sukumvhit. Booking.com was telling me that it’s almost never available and that I was in luck. Oh yes, I was! Whenever this message pops up, I don’t hesitate a minute and swiftly make a booking. It has worked out wonderfully in the past in my Okinawa explorations (Zamami and Naha) and it’s always the best ending to long scrolls of endless accommodation options and the ensuing choice fatigue.
Aster9 house the Bangkok home
The wall of the main area features a simple slogan.
Your home away from home.
Once you stay here, the slogan becomes a blissful reality. I really felt like at home because what initially seems like a simple welcoming motto is a deeply ingrained philosophy of this family-owned guesthouse. In years of travelling across Asia this is hands down one of the most authentic and memorable accommodations.
Of course, the smart design and comfort visible and felt from every little detail are one part. But the family hospitality and Toom’s unforgettable breakfasts just elevate the experience beyond any expectations of the occasional traveller that I am. Yes, a place’s allure is mostly made by people. And combined with the tasteful touch of Kanta and Toom, this house has now become my forever Bangkok’s sanctuary.
Room bigger than my flat
Coming from Hong Kong I was ecstatic to stay in a room twice the size of my flat and enjoying sipping refreshing drinks from a spacious balcony. The highlight of my mornings was to sit on the balcony and observe squirrels as they raced on the electric wires. Bangkok was just waking up but the agile animals had already seized the day running their errands. As years pass by, I cherish simple life’s miracles like these. The squirrels became my ultimate morning routine as I desperately tried to figure out their modus operandi.
Smart recommendations
Chatting to Kanta and Toom about possible ideas for exploration was equally inspiring and thanks to Kanta, the Saen Saep canal became my obsession. I enjoyed multiple rides on this less known but certainly no less entertaining Bangkok waterway exploring Bangkok from so many unknown angles. It was so fun! But more about this below. Toom also added a touch of her taste and thanks to both hosts I have not only discovered new amazing spots but also rediscovered some oldies which were long forgotten.
The highlight: ditching the temples and enjoying the vibe.
Lucky strike 2 – The Japanese twist to Bangkok
On my not so recent trip to Osaka, I became addicted to onsen and cold plunge. Since then, visiting a public spa or having access to cold plunge features on top of my to-do lists for any break, short or long, I get at work. One of the reasons why Aster9 House is therefore again the best accommodation ever is the fact that it’s a 5-minute walk to Yumoto Public Onsen. It’s not as Japanese as one might like but it has hot and cold bath.
Most important boxes ticked for me.
I visited every day and got the ultimate rejuvenation I craved. The fact that I always had the onsen to myself was a nice touch! Their in-house Thai massage was the ultimate rejuvenation ending after a full day of exploration.
Update: unfortunately, it seems that Yumoto Public onsen has permanently closed. At least, Google says so. If you crave onsen in Bangkok, you can try Yunomori. But is it probably busier than Yumoto was. Too bad.
Lucky strike 3 – Enchanting Bangkok exploration on public transport boats
Along with impeccable service Kanta also gave me the best tip ever – walk from Aster9 House to Prasarnmit Pier (close to Asok) and take a boat all the way to Wat Saket temple. Indeed, priceless tip for someone who was only treated to overpriced boat trips in the past. There are so many things to see along the river, that I couldn’t get enough of it. You can explore culture, temples, markets, café places, simply this canal stretching across this part of Bangkok offers a unique glimpse of this bustling humid metropolis. One of my most favourite places was Jim Thompson House, Patong market and a local low-key restaurant.
Jim Thompson House
As a traveller I was until recently quite ignorant of historical landmarks, palaces and so on. But I am glad I didn’t ignore Jim Thompson House. Not only did it bring me closer to understanding Bangkok’s complex history but it also delivered many vivid flashes from my life in Malaysia. One of them took me to Genting Highlands where my then boyfriend told me a story of a controversial guy who disappeared without a trace there.
In Bangkok I understood it was Jim Thompson whose mysterious disappearance remains a highly discussed topic in certain circles. His house is a mix of intriguing stories about his life and his settling down in Bangkok, developing his silk business, and finally disappearing without a trace. Genuine excerpts from newspapers of that time add an incredible veil of authenticity to the story of the man who helped shape Bangkok’s architectural and cultural landscape.
Jim Thompson House also houses a cosy cafe and a restaurant where you can sample some quite unusual beers. This will allow you to let the many subtle faces of Bangkok sink in.
From now on, Jim Thompson house is my number 1 spot for a good dose of cultural enrichment.
The best Thai low-key restaurant
I still remember one of my most favourite Thai restaurants in Kuala Lumpur. I was there twice or three times a week. When that restaurant closed, I was quite depressed. After finding a similar gem in Bangkok I feel a bit better. Boram Boran is open from Saturday to Wednesday this family-owned restaurant delivers what I crave. Unique Thai taste that doesn’t break the bank.
Patpong market
It surprised me because it wasn’t overflowing with shops with elephant trousers, shorts and whatnot but had an array of shops satisfying different tastes. I bought some high-quality t-shirts, turtlenecks and even some fashionable pieces to elevate my wardrobe. I don’t have to mention that it was all for more than a reasonable price. If I am ever in Bangkok again for shopping, Patpong will be my first stop.
Lucky strike 4 – Unusual and cute coffee places
Happy Peeps
When you have been to Bangkok several times, you just need to look around the corner (literally) to find cute gems that fill your day with optimistic vibes and leave you with lovely memories. And that’s exactly what Peeps did. Run by a devoted coffee enthusiast Benz, this coffee place, hid from all the Bangkok noise but close enough to be discovered by wandering souls, ticks so many boxes. Unusual, quirky, fun, chill, and many more.
Benz is passionate about running this shop and makes sure that her philosophy can be seen from every detail. The menu selection is not huge, but you can rest assured that every drink is prepared with dedication and care. Benz also sells eco-friendly, locally made products. I bought creams for work and every time I use them, I smell Thailand and get mentally teleported to Bangkok.
Jack’s rails slow bar
This was a great surprise. It’s easily accessible by boat but some walking will be necessary too. In fact, you will go through Patong market, so you will kill two birds with one stone. This place offers some of the most unusual experience for every café hopping enthusiast. Sipping coffee while observing fellow visitors who eagerly await the emergence of a train or train long forgotten rail track walking and balancing is going to spice up any Bangkok’s visitor itinerary.
The owners are incredibly friendly and will encourage you in your attempts to show off your long-lost balancing skills too. Of course, the fact that I met a Japanese family enjoying coffee and the wait with their unique take too only accentuated the positive vibe. Life on tracks is so different. There is the café, locals going about their day-to-day business, eager observers and occasional trains passing.
You get so much added value in one visit that it’s hard to beat this.
Lucky strike 5 – Bangkok Art & Culture Centre and Central Embassy
These spots added more depth into my Bangkok cultural immersion. The BACC invites visitors to random exhibitions, quirky shops, cafes and a library. Not only does it offer a bit of a sanctuary from the incessant noise and traffic but it also houses my favourite souvenir shop. I am a notebook addict (not the movie, but actual notebooks) and brought some cute finds. Central Embassy is another spot that deserves some mentioning. This luxury shopping complex and hotel, featuring high-end retailers, boutiques and restaurants mesmerised me with its unbelievable library and cafes sitting atop this high-rise building.
I believe I spent more than 3 hours and still couldn’t get enough. Photographing the library shelves, strolling through the multiple cafes and corners, observing life unfolding outside through the mega glass provided endless entertainment. If I lived in Bangkok this would probably be my go-to spot, despite my not being a fan of luxury. But the library space with cafes and restaurants really feels like an oasis.
Lucky strike 6 – A bustling shrine
Probably the busiest shrine in the city – Erawan – teems with people, singing and incessant chants all day long. For a fee you can have dancers dance and sing for you, enhancing your prayers. It’s popular with locals which means that the ladies at this shrine dance and sing like busy bees. Despite the long queues of crowds requesting their spiritual blessings, humidity and heat, they always remain gracious.
Lucky strike 7 – Inspiring literature
Bangkok is one of those places which need quite a lot of time until it all sinks in. Its complex culture, history and development are intriguing but it can be overwhelming to attempt to deep dive on your first or second visit. There are so many distractions and possibilities which make you feel over saturated. That’s why I appreciated once again the taste with which Aster9 house runs its guesthouse. Filled with inspiring books on Bangkok which I devoured during my mornings and evenings I finally felt like I could see a bit more under the surface. Of course, I still know nothing. I’m still uncovering the outer layers. It’s a big and juicy onion but these books really helped me see the city in a different, more romantic light.
Bangkok Then & Now – Steve van Beek
Juxtaposing photos from old and modern Bangkok along with seducing stories of both locals and expats added so much depth and spice to my Bangkok exploration. You see, even Steve van Beek, an Asian citizen, says that even after dozens of published books and documentaries he still does not have all the answers. It’s only natural that I too still often feel like a virgin in these waters.
22 walks in Bangkok – Kenneth Barrett
Not a guide, not a novel but clearly something in between. 22 ideas for colourful city explorations wrapped up in plenty of interesting stories and snippets of Bangkok’s life, this book indeed takes you everywhere.
Lucky strike 8 – rediscovering the old in a new way
I revisited Talat Noi, China Town and the surrounding area. They never disappoint! The rusty car is still there which is reassuring. The quirky alleys still remind me of old times and make me dream of times when simplicity wins over complexity.
That’s it friends. It’s impossible to cover it all. Bangkok is simply too intricate but if I get a chance to visit again, here are some things I am eyeing for. You may want to give them a try too:
The artist House, Chatuchak Market, The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA BANGKOK) , Snake Farm, Bangkok Forensic Museum, Taling Chan or Khlong Lat Mayo floating market, Kid Mai Death Awareness Cafe.
Safe travels!
More clicks from the two recent Bangkok trips
